Drawing and cutting is quiet work I can do at home; my nearsightedness is not an issue, so this is the best job for me!
Ise Katagami Kataya 2110 Ms. Keiko Nasu
Ms. Keiko Nasu used to work as an illustrator at the design department in a publishing company. She loved to create illustrations from carved paper. We asked how she encountered Ise katagami.
“After I quit the job at the publishing company, I looked for a job that would be something I’d love to do for the rest of my life. I love kimonos and their patterns. So I thought it’d make me happy to have a job related to kimonos. Then my friend told me about a magazine article regarding Ise katagami.
Until that time, she didn’t know anything about Ise katagami, which is a traditional Japanese craft. She didn’t even know that Ise katagami was used in the dyeing of kimonos and tenugui (Japanese hand towels made from cotton).
“How do they dye kimono textiles by using paper? I was intrigued when I learned about Ise katagami. I thought, there’s an ideal job for me: I love paper; I enjoy carving paper; I love drawing and designing; I love kimonos; and I can work with Ise katagami quietly at home.”
In the beginning, her master thought a year would be long enough to train her
There are some theories concerning the origin of Ise katagami. In the Edo period, Shiroko (in Suzuka City) became a territory of the Kishu clan, and the Ise katagami tradition grew under the clan’s auspices. Its demand increased as Edo komon (intricate fabric patterns) became popular. Although modernization during the Meiji period and World War II adversely affected the tradition, it peaked between 1965 and 1975.
Nowadays, since the demand for kimonos has decreased, it is necessary for the Ise katagami artists to look for new markets.
“There are some artists with the title of master. But most of them don’t take apprentices. I moved to Suzuka, and looked for a master who could teach me the techniques of Ise katagami.”
Then Mr. Yoshinori Ikuta, a tsukibori master, took her as an apprentice. Tsukibori is a method of carving using a knife with a 1-2mm blade.
“My master is keen on teaching me. When he accepted me as an apprentice, he probably thought that a year should be enough to train me. However, more than 10 years passed, because I’m determined to learn everything from him.”
It was an unexpected turn for him. But in Ms. Nasu’s career as an Ise katagami craftsperson, something unexpected came about for her, too: because part of her job now is attending events and workshops and talking about Ise katagami with a microphone in her hand.
“I’m not comfortable speaking in public, but in order to promote Ise katagami, I talk like the head of public relations. I can’t help it, because I love Ise katagami so much.”
The meticulous and fine cutting of katagami
Katagami design for tenugui—a Japanese hand towelThere is no standard pattern in Ise katagami; new patterns are designed every day
Currently she works at her master’s atelier in his house making patterns from morning till evening. Ise katagami has classic patterns such as seigaiha (waves in a blue ocean), ichimatsu (checkerboard), senmen (fans), and so on. But it doesn’t matter if she uses them or not. It’s also fine to combine patterns. It’s not the patterns that define Ise katagami, but the process. Ise katagami is all about the materials and the carving techniques.
“Usually, kimono dyers order classic patterns from me. There’s also a process called horigae, which is carving a paper pattern that they’ve already used many times for dyeing. However, I myself have more opportunity to create new designs than to practice horigae.”
Textiles dyed with katagami that Ms. Nasu designedThe quality of the tools determines the quality of the artist’s work
Ise katagami carving methods are divided into four categories: shimabori (stripe carving), tsukibori (push carving), dougubori (tool carving), and kiribori (drill carving).
Shimabori is the method of cutting stripes using a ruler and a chisel. Tsukibori is the method of carving using a knife with a 1-2mm blade. As for dougubori, knives with a shaped tip, such as an ellipse or a rhombus, are used to make patterns. Kiribori is the method of cutting out circles using a chisel with a semicircular blade to create designs such as samekomon (a finely patterned design, which looks like shark skin).
“I am mainly studying tsukibori. Three sheets of Mino washi are bonded together with persimmon tannin to create a pattern paper for Ise katagami. It is called shibugami. In order to mass-produce it, some sheets of shibugami are layered, and then artists cut through them. If the tip of the blade is tilted even a little, then the pattern will be deformed.”
In order to do a good job, just as important as having a sharp knife are: maintaining a good posture; continuous strength; and constant concentration throughout the process.
“Tsukibori is the method of carving with a sharp knife, which must be held vertically. If you lose control of your hand, you could bend your knife. Since tools are so vital for craftspeople, it’s also essential for them to keep their blades sharp. A whetstone is always at hand, so I can sharpen the blade anytime I need while I’m working. If the knife is sharp, then I can do the job properly.”
Carving with the knife held verticallyMore chances to promote Ise katagami, thanks to Tokowaka’s activities
The reason why she decided to participate in Tokowaka is because she thought she wanted to connect with other young craftspeople. But the group has given her more than she expected.
“Craftspeople tend to be too focused on improving their skills to see what’s going on around them. It was OK to be like that a long time ago. But nowadays you can’t find enough work, if you’re just sitting and waiting. Inspired by my friends in Tokowaka, I know that if I don’t promote Ise katagami and sell it to the market, then the technique would die out. That would be too bad.”
Ise katagami is a traditional tool used in dyeing. It is an applied art, but it is not a fine art. Therefore, it is essential to pass on its charm in workshops and conferences. Ms. Nasu’s activities are important for the future of Ise katagami. In that sense, Tokowaka is a great strength for her.
Each member’s design appears on the Tokowaka towel 
Ise Katagami Keiko Nasu
Ise Katagami Keiko Nasu
Born in Gifu Prefecture. In 2010 she decided to become an Ise katagami craftsperson, and moved to Suzuka City. Under Mr. Ikuta she learned the traditional technique, and improved her skill. In order to promote and revive Ise katagami, she actively participates in workshops, and in projects for town revitalization. She designs Ise katagami for tenugui, komongata (intricate fabric patterns), inden (leather design), and so on. Her motto is “Create Ise katagami that will support dyers even 100 years from now, and express my feelings through it.”